Just as there is a summer market , there is also something which is known as the winter market. According to the locals, this is a small scale winter market compared to the real thing. It was the last day of my visit to the North and I intend to grab some local souvenirs before leaving this place. However, it was not quite a perfect day as it was -31 degree celcius, not a condition to be outdoor. Not that I have a choice, so I have decided that despite the harsh weather, I have to get myself to the winter market.

So why would anyone in the right frame of mind would pick a -25 degree Celcius vacation destination (Apart from seeing the Ice Hotel)? As mentioned in my previous entry, to pursue the Northern Light. Given the short frame of time here, it's either I see it tonight or I will leave this place only with the bitter sweet memory of the harsh weather here.

Perhaps it was fate that brought me to Poultsa. Situated 25 km away from Kiruna, this outskirt town is perfect to chase after the lights as it is far from the city lights. I wouldn't have even pick this place to stay if it the other place in Kiruna is not fully booked. I must say that I am glad I choose to stay in Matti & Kerstin's Farm in Poultsa. (http://www.ofelas.se/)

My fondest memory about the farm is that I actually slept there on the first night without the heater. I accidentally plug it off to charge my phone and camera that I didn't realise one of the plug was actually the heater. It was not a pleasant sleep i must admit.


Sunrise at Matti & Kerstin's Farm in Poultsa


They provide guided services in Kiruna mainly on horseback riding and at the same time, taking the lead as a single point to arrange for dog sledging and accommodation at the spare unit in their farm. I must say that they did a good job in keeping my budget low and even providing me with the proper clothing to withstand the extreme weather.

I was quite hesitant about staying away from town as I thought it would be boring however, I hardly had anytime to relax by the fire as I have initially intended to with all the arranged winter activities lined up for me. Besides, the scenery at the farm is mesmerizing and you will get to see moose hanging around freely. Truly a photography paradise i must say (provided you can withstand the cold with your hand out of your glove)

Dog Sledge



It was extremely fun to enjoy the dog sledge ride. One advise: Dress warm...really warm. Nicholas was the owner and guide for this husky safari (as it is know) and definitely knows a great deal about handling these huskies. He was really nice to warn us not to lick any yellow snow ;P. The trip includes you strapping the dogs on the harness and a great warm lunch in the modern sami hut where you could also thaw your fingers and toes after the first leg of the journey.




Lunch by the fire: A real comfort after the icy trip

Horse Riding



Matti has arrange for a horse back riding Northern Light tour to fill in the evening activity. Proudly presenting to us his precious Icelandic Horses, and I got to ride on Hildur, my snow princess. The journey was bearly longer than 2 hours but it felt like eternity when your fingers are freezing and your leg is hurting. I must admit that it was a magical feeling riding in the woods with the snow flakes falling from above. Matti with his cape on was leading us through the woods and I can't help it but to feel like I am in some war movie running away in the middle of the night escaping the claw of the tyrant.

Although it was dark, one could clearly make out the scenery around you and I must say, it is really mesmerizing. It captures you in a magical sphere and could easily get you carried away. However, the frost biting at your fingers and toes will also pull you back to reality. After the agony ( for me a Non-horse rider) of enduring the paint in my leg and the cold, it was a great comfort to enjoy a nice warm dinner at a modern sami hut where it's warm.

I did not actually see the Northern Light until , half past 11 when Matti came knocking furiously at my door informing me that the Northern Light has indeed decided to feast my eyes before I leave to Stockholm tomorrow. Given the fact that I was already all wrapped up in bed, i was rushing clumsily trying to put ALL my layers on before jumping into the overall and putting my boots all at the same time. I was glad that I did not fall flat while dressing up in that hurry. I am glad I saw it, right above the farm, the manifestation of the Northern Light takes place.

Arranged in a rib-like pattern across the sky. It was magnificient. Although it stayed less than 10 mins, I am glad that I finally saw, I found what I came looking for.

I have been to countries where the temperature drops below freezing point. However, I could never imagine how cold it can be at the temperature of minus (-) 25ºC. It’s unimaginable. Just the day before I was soaking calmly in the temperature of plus 25 ºC and some of my friends thinks that I am beyond my sanity when I told them of my vacation plan to the Northern part of Sweden during the coldest month of the year, February. My motivation: The Northern Light (Norrsken) or also known as the Aurora Borealis.

99.9% of the people who lived or travelled to Stockholm during this time of the year (Dec) told me that it’s awfully cold, dark and depressing. I beg to differ (except on the “cold”). I find Stockholm beautiful. No doubt that it is dark but the advent stars and candles that are displayed at almost all the apartments and offices windows transform the town into a picturesque city.

Christmas markets all over the city simply cast away the darkness that many claimed upon this city and I could hardly find it dark and definitely far from depressing in the midst of this cheerful Christmas spirit displayed. I would definitely recommend a stroll in these markets as you can enjoy the local crafts, food and of course, a glass of warm glog.

In the month of August, many will gather round the table to hold a Crayfish party. It is during this time of the month that some will go to their summer home and cast their net into the river to catch these black shell fish that looks pretty much like scorpions…delicious scorpions.

According to my Swedish friend, there are many rules to eating and fishing these crayfish:

- You can only catch them during the month of August
- Eat them only in the month of Aug (applies also in the olden days but for some family they still hold on to that)
- You must release crayfish which you caught that is less than 10 cm in length.

These crayfish are usually boiled in salt and spices before being devoured. One is usually required to wear a cone shape hat and enjoy these crayfish with Snaps. As you would have known, the party would usually end up with loads of drunkards and tonnes of crayfish shell all over.

It is quite common to compare crayfish, reason that this happen is because, crayfish sold in the market comes various countries like Spain, America, etc. Every year, there will be a crayfish comparison done and it will be made known to the public which has the best crayfish. As for my personal experience, the Swedish Crayfish is by far the best as compared to those from Caucasion and Spain (this is the worst in both taste and size) . You can buy them fresh or frozen, of course, the fresh ones usually taste better.

For every journey there must be an end and my 5 ½ months escapade in Stockholm has finally come to an end. Being drown in the bucket of mixed emotions, I wasn’t quite sure if I was sad to leave this place, excited about going home or anxious about moving to my new place in Nairobi. Whatever my feeling was, I am certain that I will miss Stockholm terribly…as I already do.

Someone asked me one question couple of days prior to my departure: What is it about Stockholm that you like? Without hesitation my answer was the Nature in Sweden. After having thought about it, I realized there are so many things that I like about Stockholm:

Nature
There is never a shortage of parks for one to indulge themselves in various nature trails and have a picnic. Be it 5 mins walk within the city or 30 mins walk from your apartment, there will definitely be a place for you to spread your picnic mat and spend a serene afternoon with your favourite book under your favourite tree :)

Culture
I think the Swedish has got a rich culture and I am glad that during this short period of my stay here, I am proud to say that I have had a fair share of experience of the Swedish culture and I must say that I am impressed by the variation of culture from the north to the south of Sweden! Not only that, I particularly love the way Swedish handles between work and pleasure. I must admit, if you want to learn to enjoy life, just watch the Swedish. They remind you that life is not just about work as your own personal life is also a priority, in fact, of top priority.

Freedom
I realized that I am going to lose a big share of my freedom to venture around when I am in my new home in Nairobi. It made me appreciate the freedom of traveling and venturing Sweden on my own so much that the thought of moving to Nairobi crippled me with fear about being confine to my apartment.

Shopping
Although it may be expensive to earn Malaysian ringgit and spend in Swedish Kronor but I realized that shopping here is excellent as they have a wide range of products. After careful scrutiny of the prices, depending on what product, some are cheaper to get here and some are expensive but when it comes to the Summer sales, it’s really a SALE and you will find it so cheap to shop here.

These are the four main items that I would say covers all on why I like Stockholm and I hope to return someday…

I had the thought about skipping the Kick Off Party for ... actually I had totally no clue about the organization (the huge umbrella) I work in...but I know it covers the Africa, Central Europe and Middle East market. I am glad I took my colleague's advise not to miss it as the dinner location was an excellent choice and it will be a unique experience. He was right...

Fancy watching broadway? How about enjoying dinner while being entertained by a broadway show and being served by the the actors/singers. This is what you will get at the Wallmans. The setting of this restaurant was simply fantastic, practically feels like being in an old theater. Although it was alot smaller than I thought but it is extremely cozy.

I must admit that it feels extremely weird for you have the waiter who took your orders earlier is singing and dancing his heart out on the stage. Mind you, I don't see any difference in their performance compared to a famous celebrities! They are extremely good!

I can't recall much about the food but the sweet melodius voice and flambouyant costumes stays clear in my head. It was indeed an enchanting evening and a remarkable dining experience.

http://www.wallmans.com/flash.asp

The sign of mushrooms blossoming carries a reminder that summer will soon be over (at least to me). This time of the year ( Aug - Sept) is where many will visit their secret spot where they would rather not share with you to harvest mushrooms.

Read and heard so much about this Hansenic Medieval town that I just had to see it for myself. Indeed, it was one of the best choices I have made in my life. A boat journey of approximately 3 hours from Nynashamn Port (about one hour drive from Stockholm) will get you to this magical island where many would come for their vacation.

The walled city of Visby is stunning. The moment you set foot into the city, it felt as though that you have left the world behind and traveled back time. The tiny cottages that live through time stood proudly displaying its beauty and glory is simply breath taking. This place does not get enlisted as one of UNESCO Heritage site for no reason and it’s hard not to notice why.

I came with a mission and it was to explore the walled city of Visby, cycled round Gotland (my Swedish friend couldn’t stop laughing at my attempt, not to ridicule my inability to do so but rather at my ignorance on how large this island is!), enjoy the beach and be at the Medieval Market. I am so proud that we did it all, except of course, cycling around the entire Gotland.

Walled City
I was so attracted to the cottages within these walls that I wished I had the chance to see what it’s like inside. It has been well maintained and taken care of as most of their gardens are blooming with flowers giving these cottages such a lovely touch that one could just admire in awe. The quaint shops with interesting interior is also quite worth the visit. One step into the town square market place you will know that Gotland produces wool (although I didn’t see much sheeps around).


A swim at Tofta
We decided to enjoy the beach and some sea water at Tofta. Many sun seekers were already there when we arrived and I must admit that this beach looks different. Color of the sand, the plants that grows around (plants actually grows in these sand) and even the level of saltiness of the water is different, a lot less salty than those back home (Malaysia)! Thank God the sun was out to warm up the chilly water!


Cycling from Visby to Lummelunda
I still could not believe that I cycled that distance and still survived. On a rough estimation, we have cycled at lease 15 km! This would be an activity one should never miss when you are in Gotland. You will come across beautiful meadows, farmhouses, beaches and shipyards.
We decided to settle in Lummelunda for lunch. The attraction in Lummelunda is the limestone cave, a geological museum, café and a couple of souvenirs stores to cater for the massive crowd of visitors. We walked on to the beach and decided to set up our BBQ pit. It was not the perfect choice of location (as you can’t swim due to the huge amount of sea weed deposit in the sea) but privacy was what we had. The only annoying thing about having a BBQ there was the massive amount of flies we attracted! Simply disgusting.

Cyclist, this way

Lunch at Lummelunda

Medieval Week
During the first week of Aug every year, the town of Visby will hold a Medieval week where all the Medieval activities (medieaval sword fight, shows, etc) will be carried out including a huge medieval market. We were just in time to enjoy the first day of the Medieval week where most of the town folks take the trouble to dress up for the occasion. With the back drop of the town, you really feel that you have gone back to the Medieval Era. The Medieval market is really interesting as you can see goods from the medieval period are being sold, from food, weapons, jewelries, clothing to leather goods are being sold. I spend almost the entire day at the market just admiring the goods!

Townfolks buying cloth

I will never forgive myself if I ever give Gotland a miss. I will definitely make another trip to Gotland, perhaps this time to see the other side of the island

During the month of June to Sept, you can find various types of berries grown in the wild. For the first time in my life (You see, where I came from, berries are either sold in can, frozen or packed), I see the berries on its branches.




Lingon (Cowberries) - A ripe lingon is cherry red :)

Take a walk in the forest and pay attention to the scrubs along the path, you'll find millions of berries waiting to be devoured.

There is no better way to spend a weekend in Sweden than to be invited to your friend's summer house. It was really sweet of Dorothy and Roland to take me to their summer house in Aldesö. Situated about an hour drive from Stockholm, this place is on an island on its own and Roland's cabin is situated close to where "The Landing" is. I was told that "The Landing" is where the dock where the alcoholics or drug addicts is transported to/fro the rehabilitation island. Birka, the viking town can be seen from the lake close to their cabin. The interesting part of getting to Aldesö is by the ferry which transport both human and car across to Aldesö

So what does the swede do when they invited their friends over to their summer house? They practicaly do what the Asian do: eat, drink and be merry. Adding to their guest list was Jasmine and her partner. The meal times were so close that it feels like a eating marathon. I must admit it was pleasurable.

I believe this summer house is quite old although both the interior and exterior of the house does not show any sign of it. I got it from the fact that the bathroom is situated in another building with no flushing system. I am still not quite use to this type of toilet and I am not sure if I will ever adapt.


Apart from that, I had a great time harvesting all sorts of berries grown in their garden and enjoying the nature walk around the neighbourhood.

By the lake

Meal 1: Coffee complimented with Coffe Bröd (Coffee Bread)
Meal 2: Cheese, bread and smoke shrimp


Meal 3: BBQ dinner


Dessert: Vanilla Ice with the harvest from the garden, assorted berries.


And of course,to complete my swedish experience: my first taste of Snaps (A strong alcoholic drink which the swedes enjoy dearly). I only took a small sip and that was enough to fire up my throat! No wonder the swedes enjoyed it so much, especially during the cold season but I have to admit, it's not my cup of tea.

I was looking forward to spend a quiet weekend in the midst of nature so I decided to sail out of Stockholm and visit one of the archipelagos which boast to have the best scenery, Grinda. Although the weather report was not promising, I decided not to trust it as it has been fairly inaccurate lately. To my dismay, the forecasted gloom was there.

When I read about the award winning restaurant in Grinda, I dropped the idea of bringing my own picnic basket and decided to give myself a little treat at the Grinda Wardhus. The boat ride from Stockholm took about 90 mins from Stromkajen (in front of the Grand Hotel) to Norra Grinda (North of Grinda).

It was no surprise to me that the dock at Grinda was nothing more than just a concrete platform surrounded by the forest. Although one may feel a little uncertain if there would be any living form further beyond the path leading towards the inner part of the forest, but the fair amount of passengers that get off this port assures you that somewhere inside, there is life.
Uncertain where I was supposed to go, I just follow the crowd into the forest. Sightings of camp grounds, peculiar tents (a miniature house with front porch), functioning ancient water pumps and mobile toilets are found along the path leading inwards. It was calm and quiet since it’s only half past 9 in the morning. I soon caught sight of some wild raspberry plans and of course various wild flowers that grows along side the path. It was not long before I found the “town center” where the Grinda Wardhus hotel and restaurant is.

The view from the deck where the restaurant is situated is superb. Stretching out from the high ground, it gives viewer a panoramic view of the coastline of the Archipelago. I know lunch would be perfect even before I get a taste of it. Inside the reception area, which is something you should not miss (check out the rustic interior of the reception area, it brings a sense of comfort to tired travelers), you will be able to get a poorly sketched map of Grinda. I wouldn’t say that it is a good guide but it’s the only one you can have and roughly know where you are.

I decided to venture the entire island if possible and find myself a good spot to lay my mat and dig into my book. My walk began at the local mini mart where you can get some groceries for self catering guest. There is also a docking yard for boat owners and a café with a fantastic view by the coast. Kayak and bicycle is available for rental, however, the look of the bicycle was in such a sorry state that the thought of touching it appalls me.

Heading towards the South side of Grinda, alternative port for the arrival/departure of ferry (be sure where you departing ferry will be arriving at), you will see a farm where fresh eggs and lambskins are sold. Just be cautious when you get cross to see the animals, you might get electrocuted for being too close (electric fencing). Swimming areas are marked at the map, however, the gloomy and the strong wind deter me from even wanting to lay my mat down on the ground so I decided to go around the island instead.

Raspberries, blueberries and even Cloudberries can be found all over the ground. The only set back was that it was time to be harvested so I had to leave it where it is with much heaviness. Imagine how many bottles of jam I can produce!

I wouldn’t say that the scenery is breath taking (blame it on Abisko for its jaw-dropping view). However, there is no lacking of good sceneries in this archipelago. It is indeed a perfect picnic place (as there is so much room for picnic) and a perfect gateway for a quiet weekend. Life is peaceful here. Different part of the island reveals different side of its beauty. View from the cliff revealing the hundreds of boats parked at the docking bay, view of the cliff against the blue water, the raging wave as it rushes onto the shoreline and more. There is something about this archipelago…it feels like it is in a world completely on its own. Strange in a positive way that keeps you wanting for more…perhaps it’s the perfect union between serenity and beauty.

Lunch at the awarding-winning restaurant was indeed one of my best experiences here. Both for my taste bud and for my eyes (superb view), indeed they don’t get an award for reason. I was initially battling between the seafood casserole and the entrecote. In the end, I decided to go for entrecote with red wine sauce and I have not regretted since ( I bet the casserole taste equally good). I know I can get entrecote right in down town of Stockholm, however, it matters which chef is handling the meat. Here, it was cooked to perfection, rosy but not bleeding and melts right in your mouth. The compliment of the red wine sauces brings out the flavor of the meat and yet not overpowering it that you can’t taste the meat.

I ended my trip with my book on the rocks at Sodre Grinda (South Grinda) while waiting for the next boat to take me home. It was indeed a quiet and rewarding weekend I had at Grinda. Although it was a day trip for me, I was kind of glad as I would have most probably got myself a place in the youth hostel (as a night stay at the Grinda Wardhus would be unaffordable for my pocket) where mobile toilets are utilized. I am not that fond of these mobile toilets where everyone’s contribution is kept there for a period of time, perhaps until it’s full before being disposed. Back to the world of flushing toilet in trade of the peaceful nature of Grinda, I supposed I could live with that.